The month of March was a doozy for me. You know the times where you have plans, and then things just come out of left field all over the place to mess with you? Yeah, that kind of month. Some of the stuff was super cool, like my brother coming home after being away for two years in Russia and Kazakhstan. That was awesome. Other things, not so cool, like hey, strep.
So of course, I thought it pretty darn ironic that the word for this month’s block (which I planned back in September) is “believe”…because hey. This month? It was all I could do to believe that I could handle even one more minute of the insanity. (Turns out I could, no matter how it felt.)
And then, of course, when I went to actually make the block, I ended up having to do it twice. Apparently my math was all over the place the first time, and I didn’t notice until I got to the part where I’m sewing all the rows together. Hooray for do-overs.
If I were trying to be inspirational, I would say “Believe in yourself! Believe in your dreams! Believe in the goodness of humanity! Believe in love, and grace, and kindness! Believe in creativity, and passion, and luck! Believe in beauty! Believe in your own worth, and in a loving Heavenly Father who’s looking out for you!”
But that’s not the month I had, so I’m going to say this instead:
Believe, that no matter how crazy today is, and no matter how crazy tomorrow is, that you’ll get through it. You will. Even if there are a couple do-overs.
And all that inspirational stuff? Believe that too. :)
How was your March?
PS Check out Amy’s Virtual Quilting Bee! She’s having quilty bloggers post a block tutorial every other Friday. I get to post my block this Friday! Come follow along!
(12) 2 5/8″ dark green squares.
(24) 2 3/8″ squares from various green fabrics. Subcut diagonally once to make (48) triangles.
(1) 7″ linen square.
Make the green diamond square-in-a-square blocks by sewing a triangle to opposite sides of each green square. Align centers for correct seam allowance. Usually, I fold pieces in half and finger press as I sew to align the middles. Be sure your seam is hitting right where the two pieces intersect.
Trace the shamrock for the applique using your desired method (please note, the template does NOT include seam allowance). I chose to pin my piece to some minky and cut it out without fuseable web. I pinned the shape to the linen and adhered it using a zig zag stitch.
Don’t go running and screaming away, I promise this will be quick and painless. And for those of you who haven’t done much with applique, or machine applique, you’ll see this isn’t anything to be afraid of.
Here’s the thing about machine applique: with the right tools and techniques, it can be really, really easy. And if you’re one of those people that just cringe at the word applique, well, you’re not alone. I have a couple friends and family members that are right there with you. But I promise–it doesn’t have to be traumatizing. Lets do it. Here are 10 steps to perfect machine applique.
1. Start with a template
Unless you’re really, really good at freehanding it, it’s easier to trace a shape. Also, with this technique, if you want to applique letters, you’ll want the letter to go backwards on the template.
Trace the template on to the paper side of some fuseable webbing. Usually, I use Heat ‘n Bond lite, but I also really like featherweight–it doesn’t make the finished product stiff at all.
2. Cut around your shape, leaving some space around the line. Iron to fabric.
Place the paper shape shiny side down on the wrong side of your fabric.
Adhere the paper shape to the fabric according to manufacturer’s instructions. In my case, I used the “silk” setting on my iron for 2 seconds.
3. Cut out the shape on the line.
Peel the paper off the back of the fabric.
4. Iron the shape to background fabric, according to manufacturer’s instructions.
In my case, I used the silk, no steam setting for 10 seconds. Be sure not to keep your iron there too long, you run the risk of scorching the fabric or making the webbing not adhere as well. The shape should be stuck to the background well enough that it doesn’t lift or shift if gently manipulated.
5. Choose your thread.
You have lots of choices when it comes to thread. I have used metallic, iridescent, matching, contrasting, even invisible thread. If you’re just beginning, I suggest using a thread that matches your shape. As you gain skill and confidence, you can move on to other threads–which can add a LOT of fun and visual interest to your project.
6. Start with a tacking stitch.
Using a clear presser foot, align your shape right in the middle of your presser foot, so that your needle will sink right at the edge. Take a few very small straight stitches along the edge of the shape. This will help your zig zag (or other decorative stitch) be secure and not unravel. On my machine, I set my stitch length to .5 and took about 5 stitches. I usually start on an inside corner or a straight part if there is one. On circles, you can start wherever you want.
7. Stitch around the shape, using a decorative stitch.
I use a zig zag stitch, because my sewing machine doesn’t have other stitches that work well with applique. If you have a blanket stitch, that’s a fun one too. Align your stitch so that it is all on the shape, just barely coming off the edge of the shape and hitting the background.
8. Drop your needle and pivot at corners.
When you reach a corner, manually place your needle right at the corner, in the background.
Lift your presser foot, pivot the fabric until it is aligned, then begin stitching again.
9. On circular shapes, pivot continually or use the “clock method”.
When I am stitching around a circular shape, I use one of two methods. On larger, more gradual curves, I put one finger parallel to the presser foot on the shape and allow that finger to serve as a pivot point. This allows the fabric to move freely and easily around the curve. The keys to this method are practice and allowing the fabric to move freely.
If I am stitching around a smaller or tighter curve, I sink the needle and pivot just like with corners, only moving less with each pivot. The “clock” means to pivot at each place where an hour would be located on the clock. This helps so that your stitching still looks circular like your shape.
10. Finish with a tacking stitch.
Just like when you started, finish by switching to a very small straight stitch and taking 5-6 stitches. This will secure your applique so it doesn’t unravel.
There you have it! 10 steps to perfect machine applique. I hope you’ll try it and see it’s not so scary after all. I’ve included a template you can download and practice with, including marked pivot points on both the star and the circle. Click the link below to open the PDF in a new window.
As I am typing this, I’m wondering if it would be helpful for me to post a video of the circular stitching. What do you think? Do you have other questions? Machine applique tips or suggestions?
PS Have you made January’s block? Or February’s? (You’re speedy!) I’m going to post a giveaway this month, and one way to get an entry will be to add your block to the flickr group. So far, my block is all alone. :( I’d love to see yours!
When I put my little ones to sleep at night, one of my favorite things to tell them is
“I absolutely adore you!”
I remember the first time they asked me what “adore” means, and I told them (because they were still so little), that adore means to not only love someone so so much, but to really really like them too. To think they are more wonderful than the moon, or the stars, or anything else.
To this day, when I tell them I absolutely adore them, they can’t help but smile, and neither can I.
So this block is to remind you to find, and surround yourself with people, and places, and memories that you like, love, even worship. That you adore.
solid strips for borders
(2) 12½” x 2” border strips (Dark Plum)
(2) 9½“ x 2” border strips (Magenta)
(1) 10” square (linen)
Using scraps, make an improv patchwork piece large enough to cut out the heart template.
Trace the heart on to fuseable web, adhere to the back of the crazy patchwork piece according to manufacturer’s instructions. Cut out on the line.
Fuse heart to the center of the 10” background according to manufacturer’s instructions. Using a small zig zag, or other decorative stitch, sew the heart to the background.
Trace the embroidery outline around the heart with an erasable marker.
Using a backstitch and two strands of embroidery floss, embroider around the heart.
Trim the square to 9½” square.
Sew the 9½” x 2″ borders to the left and right sides of the square. Press toward the border strips.
Sew the 12½” x 2″ borders to the top and bottom. Press toward the strips.
Click below to print the template and embroidery pattern.
The kiddos and I just finished up their Valentines, and boy did they turn out fun.
As it was, I told them what I thought we should do, and two days later Beckham came up to me laughing and repeating the punchline.
PS I actually cut my hearts out with my Silhouette Cameo. If you want me to post that file, I’d be happy to. Just let me know. Also, the super cute washi tape on the valentines came from a free downloadable set I found here. Head on over there to download and use them yourself. They’re super cute.